Sai Wan Estate: Sharing is caring 裊裊飯香-黃稼梅

Sai Wan Estate: Sharing is caring 裊裊飯香-黃稼梅

Sai Wan Estate
This story is part of a series of stories dedicated to Sai Wan Estate, the oldest surviving public estate in Hong Kong. The stories are curated by Caritas Mok Cheung Sui Kun Community Centre and iDiscover, and exhibited at Little Creatures, a restaurant in the neighbourhood. Through this series, we hope to share with you stories and history of the estate, so that you can walk away with a fresh pair of lens.

西環邨
這個故事是《西灣邨故事系列》的一部分,故事由明愛莫張瑞勤社區中心及iDiscover撰寫,並曾在區內餐廳Little Creatures展覽。希望這個系列可以讓更多新街坊了解昔日的生活點滴,發現西環的美好。

“Neighbours are great. We have around 20 families on a corridor, and you run into them all the time. It makes the space feel much bigger. No one minds if you walk into their place.”

 

「十幾年前先更名為西環村,街坊好好啊,打開道門。一條廊有十幾二十戶,但果十幾二十戶可以穿來穿去,一間屋好細,但你穿十幾戶就變得好大,好似北京果啲四合院。周圍出入都冇人話你,你鍾意走入邊間都得,你鍾意走入嚟又得,個個都好開心。」

 

Laundry girl 

Maria has been living in Sai Wan Estate since she was a child, over 60 years. When she was young, she lived here with her parents, grandma, sister, brother-in-law, and their baby, seven of them shared a flat.

“I grew up doing all the chores. I was the ‘laundry girl’. All the adults’ clothes went to a big basket, separated from the baby’s and I had to wash it all by hand. When I was done my grandma would treat me an ice pop. I love eating ice pops, they were 10 cents each.”

Maria由孩提時代到現在都住在西環邨,不經不覺已超過六十年。小時候的她和爸媽、阿嫲、家姐、姐夫、一個BB,一家七口同住一屋。

「我自細都做屋企嘢大。做開一次,以後個責任就落喺我果度,於是個個就拎哂出嚟比我洗。當年咁多人住一間屋,所有大人衫放晒落個咁大既盤去洗、BB啲尿布就要分開洗;係阿嫲啲衫唔使我洗,全部佢自己搞掂。然後阿嫲就話見你洗哂咁大盤都好辛苦,之後就氹下你食唔食雪條,梗係鐘意食!又無嘢可以食,請你食枝雪條,當時一毫子食枝雪條,好開心啦!」她指當時並無洗衣機,屋企唔會乜都有電啦,即係廉租屋;當年住得係到(廉租屋),屋企都係無乜錢。雖然當年的環境談不上很好,但忙碌過後,簡單如吃一枝雪條就經已很開心。

「嗰時屋租係一百二十二元,大概係收入五分一租錢啦,好緊要喎,依家更加唔同比例啦,(依家)有啲得幾千蚊一個月,但間屋成萬蚊租。」

 

Water shortage

Every Hong Konger remembers the water shortage during the 60s. The water only came for four hours every four days, but even then, the water pressure was so weak the water didn’t always make it to the upper floors: “The water was all gone when it reached 10th floor and we lived on the 12th floor, so I had to go down to the basement to fetch water and carry buckets upstairs”.

制水時的西環邨

談起60年代,為香港人所熟悉的就是制水。Maria告知我們當時的情況是因為水壓問題泵不到水,所以整天無水。當年她到樓下打水的情形還記憶猶新。「喺坑渠果度,用水袋裝住啲水,就可以一袋袋倒落個水桶度,再拎返上嚟。初初開水果陣,下面果啲人發茅泵水,唔係裝一桶,係裝好多嘛;整整吓果啲人又猛裝,我樓上冇水,大家都要裝嘛!點解要裝?啲水係每四日嚟四個鐘,唔係四日之後免費任你攞幾耐,係四日之後四個鐘頭。如果座大廈有十二層,幾時先等到十二樓裝水?嗰啲人等水等得好緊要,因為啲水會一層比一層弱,去到十樓、十一樓已經冇水,所以要樓下閂水喉,啲水先泵到俾你。你又要諗下,你呢四個鐘內裝唔到水,你就幾日就冇水用。」

 

Sharing the love of food

Maria often shares meals with her neighbours: “Cooking a meal for few is expensive and cumbersome, cooking with neighbours made it easier and cheaper. When I first invited them to eat together, they felt awkward, but gradually we’ve all grown to love it. We even go out for buffet together, sometimes hotpot. Once we got a discount meal, we only paid $100 a head.”

“For festivals we always prepare special food. My family would make rice cake for Chinese New Year and our neighbours would have other flavours, radish, taro or water chestnut, the corridors never smelled so good. People who live here are not very well-off, that’s why we share with each other.” Maria has many fond memories that involve sharing, a neighbour bringing two cages of chicken, giving one to each floor or a huge pot of soup shared among neighbours.

和鄰舍分享美味

Maria憶述,住在公屋裡,鄰居之間那份互相幫助、無私分享,是現今社會轉型後比較少有。「你煮得少就好難預(份量),同埋隔離鄰舍一齊煮,果個份量都可以預返咁上下。以前多數會同隔離鄰舍一齊食飯,好多時行過鄰居都會問今日得一個人?就叫我過去食飯。咁你開飯叫我啦。」「到時到候,隔離屋就話過嚟啦,食得飯啦,開飯喇。」「初初叫隔離屋一齊食飯,人哋都唔係幾好意思,但整整吓大家都鍾意一齊食飯。就係咁,我地有時一齊食自助餐、打邊爐,有次叫咗個特價餐一齊食,一人一百蚊。你一餐我一餐,呢一餐我下一餐你,佢兩公婆(隔離鄰舍)都好好人。」

每逢過節的時候Maria都會準備一些應節食品,村民之間都會互相分享。「我細個過年屋企就會買一底年糕,因為好少有人整年糕。鄰居會俾你食,有時會見你咁鍾意食又俾吓你食咁。馬蹄糕啦、蘿白糕啦、芋頭糕啦,呢三樣糕點新年路過走廊就一定有得食。就算無得食都好,你行落去,經過鄰居家時聞到香味,說句,唔!好香呀,係煎芋頭糕嘅味喎。鄰居就會問,係咪想食呀?佢哋都好願意同你分享。」

「以前大家住得廉租屋,呢到啲人都唔係真係好有錢,咁我地買乜嘢都係大家share,大家分。你又有、我又有。我記得細個嗰陣,有人拎咗兩籠雞返嚟,我地成層樓就一齊分,一齊整雞一齊拔雞毛,每間屋都有雞食,一煮開就成條巷都聞到香味,都不知幾開心。」

「記得鄰居仲問食唔食蠔油,我成日煮餸,我梗係話食啦。通常到夜晚,佢哋又拎蠔油又拎生抽呀,我問點解要拎落嚟俾我?佢話佢哋又唔煮食,但特價時又買咗,你食不如俾咗你啦。」「有次煲咗一大煲湯,我就諗,不如叫佢哋落嚟攞啦,反正佢哋一向都唔煲湯。」

 

The neighbourhood bonding

“Neighbours are great. We have around 20 families on a corridor, and you run into them all the time. It makes the space feel much bigger. No one minds if you walk into their place. The air ventilation is very good. The grannies sit outside at their door to enjoy the breeze and rest at noon. Everyone is very nice here, especially the grannies, they’re friendly and caring. They come from a generation that came to Hong Kong to take refuge, they remember the days when everyone was poor, when you had to share one phone line with the whole floor”.

那些年的人情味

「十幾年前先更名為西環村,街坊好好啊,打開道門。一條廊有十幾二十戶,但果十幾二十戶可以穿來穿去,一間屋好細,但你穿十幾戶就變得好大,好似北京果啲四合院。周圍出入都冇人話你,你鍾意走入邊間都得,你鍾意走入嚟又得,個個都好開心。」

「因為西環村的單邊設計,老人家中午會坐在門前乘涼,打開窗就會有風吹入室內,十分通爽舒服。呢個村啲居民都好好,特別是上年紀的老人家會念舊、有人情味。」

「早個輩走難落嚟,大家隔離鄰舍,都係會互相幫助,都識得互相照應。因為以前啲人都好窮,無乜錢剩,你都冇所謂,所以大家都會互相幫助。我有電話,大家都會嚟打,無所謂…」「以前一層樓就得一個電話,一有電話打嚟就叫個仔女話比佢聽,啊邊個叫你打返比佢喎……有時做跑腿仲要跑云哂十幾間屋。咁就好開心啦!完全同現在社會唔同:依家一人都有兩、三個電話啦。」

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